Comuna 13

Yesterday, we finally made our way to Comuna 13. In the 1980’s through early 2000’s this neighborhood was widely considered to be the most dangerous area in the world (heavily contributing to Medellin’s reputation for the most dangerous city in the world). It’s location on the edge of the city and on the slopes of the mountains made it the perfect gateway for smuggling drugs out of Medellin and smuggling weapons in. Several gangs and paramilitary groups fought for control of this area for years, creating decades of terror for the residents.

The below map shows how Medellin is split up into 14 “comunas” and Comuna 13 is highlighted in red. The neighborhood Alex and I are staying in is El Pablado in the Southeast.

The paramilitary groups were demobilized in 2004, and while it didn’t end all of the drug trafficking and illegal smuggling, it did end much of the violence.

After so many years of violence and neglect, in 2006 the elected mayor decided to invest in the neighborhood. A new cable car line was built, connecting the neighborhood to the rest of the city, and electric outdoor elevators were installed allowing residents and visitors to avoid several hundred steps in the steeply sloped neighborhood. These efforts, along with the beautiful street art that became prolific, made Comuna 13 a symbol of transformation in Medellin. Today it is safe and a popular tourist destination… during the day, at least 🙂

We went on Saturday and the neighborhood was fully alive with visitors and street vendors!

I have never been anywhere with so much street art! It covered every blank wall in the city.

Because of its situation on the mountainside, the neighborhood was full of steep streets and tiny colorful staircase alleys. And of course, the outdoor escalators! The locals take a lot of pride in these escalators. Alex and I got scolded for walking down one. I guess you are supposed to stand still and appreciate the ride.

The hillside town also gives way to spectacular views of the city. After exploring the neighborhood for a few hours, we found a cute little bar to enjoy a local beer and a beautiful vista. And took some selfies!!

I really enjoyed this neighborhood and I am so glad we went! While Comuna 13 is a popular tourist destination, it is still a very real view into a local neighborhood and the transformation story is pretty wild.

On the walk back to the metro station, we stumbled upon a lonely donkey grazing in a playground.